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Girona

The medieval villages of L'Empordanet

Peratallada, Ullastret, Monells and Púbol are some of the medieval villages in the Baix Empordà district. They can be visited in a pleasing itinerary that includes a Surrealist museum, an Iberian settlement and a castle crowning a massif.
 
PERATALLADA, ULLASTRET AND MONELLS
 
It's best to visit Peratallada, Ullastret and Monells in this order. Peratallada is built on solid rock on which, in the middle ages was built a very large fortification with its moat carved out of the rock. 'Pedra tallada' means 'cut rock, or 'carved stone,' and this gives the place its name. The town today has a handsome arcaded square. The one in Monells is particularly spectacular having an irregular floor plan with arcades on three of the four sides. A large market was held here until the end of the 17th century. A most beautiful place.

Ullastret is also surprising. It had been a closed, or walled, town and its narrow streets retain a medieval air, but the main attraction in Ullastret is the Iberian settlement there, the largest in the whole principality. The entrance fee includes the sound guide which has a version for adults and another one for children in which the director of the site talks about who lived here during the time of the Ibers and how archaeologists have been able to find out about them. The visit ends at the small dedicated museum, which has a virtual realty immersive room where you can travel back in time and walk through the streets of the Iberian town as if the houses were still standing.
 
PÚBOL
 
And now to Púbol where there is a very special museum. Púbol castle was purchased by Salvador Dalí, who restored it in his own way—which is to say with a lot of Surrealist imagination—and then he gave it to his wife Gala. You shouldn't miss the chance to visit it.
 
TORROELLA DE MONTGRÍ
 

From Púbol you can go to Torroella de Montgrí. Why? To go up to the castle. From there, with the Empordà at your feet you can feel for a moment like one of the former lords, counts or barons who once ruled these lands.


*An excursion proposed in collaboration with the magazine Descobrir. 
 

Romanesque weekend: L'Empordà

The prose off Josep Pla, the surrealism of Salvador Dalí and the genius of Narcís Monturiol come from L'Empordà. We invite you to rediscover the Romanesque key of the land of these great figures. We will travel from south to north, accompanied by another distinctive trait of this area: the north wind!

HERITAGE TO PICK AND CHOOSE

The Costa Brava has much more than just sun and sand: the monastery of Sant Feliu de Guíxols is one of the best examples of this Romanesque heritage. Standing in front, the Porta Ferrada is the facade of an ancient pre-Romanesque building that has given name to the oldest music, theatre and dance festival in Catalonia.

In Santa Cristina d’Aro the Romanesque style of the churches of Bell-lloc d’Aro and Sant Martí de Romanyà makes a great combination with the original offer of the Casa Màgica (House of Magic), a museum dedicated to conjuring and magic. Once in La Bisbal, you can admire the civil Romanesque style of the castle and the Terracotta Museu (Terracotta Museum).

Much more in the Romanesque style awaits you, though before continuing we recommend you to visit the Iberian settlement of Ullastret. In Palau-Sator you get back on track with the Romanesque paintings of the church of Sant Pau of Fontclara.

ON THE TRAIL OF GENIUSES

You continue northward to find the ancient Greek colony of Rhode, Roses in Catalan: in the Citadel we find the Lombard style central apse of the monastery of Santa Maria.

Right by Figueres the schubertíades have taken root. They are musical events inspired by the Austrian composer Franz Schubert. Vilabretran welcomes them every summer, though any moment is perfect for exploring the Romanesque monastery of Santa Maria. Not very far from Rabós you also find spirituality: the monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera shows a sober and robust Romanesque style amongst a land of dolmens and menhirs.

Finally, we must return to the coast. The monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes was looted by pirates, visited by pilgrims and made beautiful by one of the most mysterious sculptors of the Romanesque era, the Master of Cabestany. For this and much more it is an indispensable example of the Romanesque style. Don't miss out on the fantastic capitals


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Romanesque weekend: from Montseny to Garrotxa

The Romanesque art of the interior of Girona is found amongst large green spaces: between Montseny and Montnegre we discover the monastery of Sant Salvador, the area in which the village of Breda developed. Amongst the Romanesque details, the 12th century bell tower is noteworthy.

Once in Santa Coloma de Farners, we recommend you to stop at the church of Sant Pere Cercada. The Romanesque Farners castle and the emblematic mountains around it also deserve a visit: the Turó del Vent, the Turó de Farners and the Roqueteres.

MEDIEVAL GIRONA

You immediately notice the medieval flavour of Girona. The Gothic style Cathedral still maintains Romanesque vestiges such as the tower of Carlemany and the cloister. It is also home to two of the most significant Romanesque objects: the Tapestry of Creation and the Beatus of Girona.

In the monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants, beyond studying all of the defining Romanesque elements, you can visit the Girona site of the Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya (Museum of Archaeology of Catalonia). Before leaving the city you must visit the celebrated Arab Baths, a Romanesque locale inspired by the facilities used by the Muslim, or make a trip to the Devesa, the largest urban park in Catalonia.

HERITAGE AMONGST VOLCANOES

The first Benedictine monastery founded in Spain is located in Banyoles. The monastery of Sant Esteve is our destination, where today the Neoclassic style prevails over its Romanesque origins.

Besalú is an excellent example of a medieval village; it is impossible to leave without visiting the most emblematic of its elements: the Old Bridge over the Fluvià river.

The last part of the route passes through rough, broken and difficult terrain: this defines the Garrotxa. However the natural beauty of this area and its patrimonial richness make up for the hard journey. Around Olot, the volcanoes and the floral life of Fageda d’en Jordà... and the only hermitage situated inside a crater: that of Santa Margarida.


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Romanesque weekend: from the Ripollès to Northern Catalonia

We suggest you to begin the journey at the final resting place of such illustrious characters as Guifré el Pilós, Ramon Berenguer III, Ramon Berenguer IV and Bernat Tallaferro. We are speaking of the monastery of Sant Maria de Ripoll: it is an emblematic monument of the Romanesque style consecrated in 888. Taking time to view the sculptures of its magnificent portico is essential!

BERGUEDÀ: BETWEERN ART AND INDUSTRY

In Sant Jaume de Frontanyà you will find a survivor of the Romanesque: its monastery. Of the original building only the church, three apses and transept remain. Observe its 12-sided dome, unique in all of the Catalan Romanesque style.

Art and work define the Berguedà. In Cercs you can visit the pre-Romanesque church of Pedret after passing over the Gothic bridge that provides access. Don’t forget the town's most recent history, explored in greater depth in the Museu de les Mines de Cercs (Museum of the Cercs Mines). To the north is Guardiola de Berguedà, also a mining region and also with a Romanesque treasure: The (restored) monastery of Sant Llorenç next to Bagà.

Before leaving the county we suggest you to make two more stops. The first visit is to the heritage of Pobla de Lillet, where the church houses a 12th century Christ. However, if you prefer to be outdoors you can pass through the Gardens of Can Artigas, designed by Antoni Gaudí, and the Romanesque Old Bridge.

The journey continues following the river Llobregat to Castellar de n’Hug that also shows you its two sides: the Romanesque of the churches of Sant Maria and that of Sant Vicenç de Rus, and the industrial side in the Asland Cement Factory.

PATH OF THE CANIGÓ MOUNTAIN

In Bellver de Cerdanya you mustn't miss the bell tower of Sant Eugènia de Nerellà. Its peculiarity is that it is strongly inclined towards the southeast. That is why it is known as the 'Tower of Pisa of la Cerdanya'! However, much before the arrival of the Romanesque, this area had artistic marvels such as the cave paintings of the Ingla Valley Shelter and the remains in the Cova d’Anes.

Guils de Cerdanya is our penultimate stop. The Romanesque style of Sant Esteve de Guils and its ornamentation with animal motifs will surprise you... and finally, we give you a good reason to enter the Conflent: at the very foot of the Canigó mountain is the abbey of Sant Miquel de Cuixà. Did you know that its capitals are currently found in New York?


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The Dalí Triangle

If we drew a line joining the municipalities of Púbol, Portlligat and Figueres, we would draw a triangle: the Dalí triangle, an area covering some 40 square kilometres. Here you can get to understand the life and work of Salvador Dalí by visiting the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres, the Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol and the Salvador Dalí House Museum in Portlligat. Start the car and let's set off!
 
DALÍ THEATRE-MUSEUM

Our suggested tour starts at the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres. It is in itself considered to be the largest Surrealist object in the world. Built over the remains of the former Figueres theatre, the building contains many master works by Salvador Dalí. After lunch you can head on to Cadaqués and Portlligat, 50 minutes away from Figueres, to discover even more about him, and spend the night.

SALVADOR DALÍ HOUSE MUSEUM
 
What was a fisherman's hut in Portlligat is now the Dalí House Museum, his only fixed abode. He established himself there in 1930 and continued to live and work there until 1982. When his wife and muse, Gala, died, he moved to the Castell de Púbol. The building, devised by Dalí and Gala, is a labyrinthine structure distributed around the so-called 'Hall of the Bear'. To visit it, you need to book.
 
GALA DALÍ CASTLE
 
The following day, after a stroll around the picturesque coastal village of Cadaqués, head off to Púbol, the final destination on the route, and an hour-and-a-half's drive away. Here you can visit the Gala Dalí Castle, a medieval building which Dalí gave to Gala. It has been open to the public since 1996 and epitomises the relationship between the two lovers very well. At the end of your visit you can have lunch in one of the nearby restaurants or head off to Girona, half an hour away, instead.
 
 
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The historic gardens of the Costa Brava

The Costa Brava boasts three historic gardens: Mar i Murtra, in Blanes; Santa Clotilde, in Lloret de Mar; and Cap Roig, in Calella de Palafrugell. You can visit all three of them in a weekend because they are only an hour away from each other by car.
 
MAR I MURTRA GARDEN (BLANES)
 
The Mar i Murtra Botanical Garden contains Catalonia's most magnificent collection of plants and because of this, and on account of its considerable size, it is one of the most outstanding botanical gardens in Europe. This historic garden is also noted for its abundant array of cacti and Mediterranean plants, as well as a large variety of other plants from all over the world. These days, not only can you enjoy a walk through this spectacular garden, you can participate in some of the talks, concerts, courses and workshops that are held there.
 
THE SANTA CLOTILDE GARDENS (LLORET DE MAR)
 
The Santa Clotilde Gardens, located on a cliff of great beauty, and commanding marvellous views over the sea, is considered to have sprung from the Noucentisme cultural movement that took place in Catalonia during the early part of the 20th century. They were laid out by the architect, Nicolau Rubió i Tudurí, a disciple of Jean Claude Nicolas Forestier. As you stroll through these gardens, pausing, perhaps in a little plaça, along your way, you will be treated to magnificent panoramic views of the coastline.
 
CAP ROIG GARDENS (CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL)
 
In 1927 the exiled Tsarist colonel Nicolai Woevodsky and his wife Dorothy Webster built a castle on top of a cliff in Cap Roig surrounded by idyllic botanical gardens, considered to be amongst the Mediterranean's best. Today the Cap Roig Gardens also contain sculptures by contemporary artists. Don't forget to visit the castle during your visit. From there you can enjoy splendid views of the Cala d’en Massoni, known locally as the Banyera de la Russa, or Russian lady's bathtub, since it was here that Dorothy Webster would go for a swim.

 
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Jewels of Catalan Romanesque in Ripoll

Some of the most important Romanesque architecture in Catalonia, indeed the world, is to be found in this town, located at the confluence of the rivers Freser and Ter. Surrounded by woods, rivers and peaks, Ripoll, in the midst of magnificent pre-Pyrenean countryside, is overflowing with history.
 
MONASTERY OF SANTA MARIA
 
The jewel in the crown of Ripoll is the Monastery of Santa Maria, also known as the cradle of Catalonia. Located in the Plaça de l’Abat Oliba, it was founded by Count Guifré el Pelós (Wilfred the Hairy) in 879 and went on to become a religious centre of the very first order. The portal, one of the most important Romanesque works in the world, has recently been restored to reveal the medieval polychrome of the Christ Pantocrator.
 
CHURCH OF SANT PERE
 
The church of Sant Pere, consecrated in 890 as a parish church, is in the same square as the Monastery of Santa Maria. It has recently been refurbished for use as a cultural centre, having previously been used for more than 30 years as a warehouse. It has not been used for religious purposes since the beginning of the Spanish Civil War, when it was sacked and the retables destroyed.
 
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
 
Without leaving the Plaça de l’abat Oliba you can pay a visit to the Ethnographic Museum which has 12 collections explaining the life of the country folk, their trades and occupations such as shepherding, life in the home and religious life, as well as other aspects of people's lives in Ripoll and Girona's pre-Pyrenees. Don't miss the section on forges and iron, essential elements of the Ripollès economy since the Middle Ages. There is also a collection of portable Ripoll firearms, items that achieved international fame.
 
PALAU FORGE
 
A few-minutes walk in the direction of the river Freser, in the Passeig de la Farga Catalana, will take you to the "Farga Palau" (Palau Forge). It was established as an iron foundry in the 17th century, later becoming a coppersmith's and not closing until 1978. It is an interesting place to visit because it is the only remaining complete forge left in Catalonia and it has, furthermore, been declared a Historical Landmark by the American Society for Metals.
 
TRAILS IN THE SURROUNDING AREA
 
As well as these places of historical and cultural interest you shouldn't leave Ripoll without tasting some of its culinary offerings, such as its renowned cured sausages, or visiting the countryside at closer quarters. The Pyrenees are just a stone's throw away! Maybe you'd like to follow these trails on foot. They'll lead you to the four hilltops surrounding Ripoll, from where there are excellent views of the town.
 

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The Iberian Route: Lloret de Mar, the botanical gardens and the indigetes

June, July and August
 
Take advantage of the good weather to get to know Lloret at first-hand. Visit the Noucentista botanical gardens and the Iberian settlement of Puig de Castellet, which has spectacular views over the Costa Brava's Mediterranean coastline!
 
SANTA CLOTILDE GARDENS

Start your visit at the Santa Clotilde gardens in Lloret de Mar. The gardens were designed along traditional Italian Renaissance lines, gentle but at the same time austere, by Nicolau Rubió i Tudurí when he was 28 years of age, and when his teacher in the arts of garden landscaping, Forestier, was at the height of his popularity.
 
THE IBERIAN SETTLEMENT OF PUIG DE CASTELLET

After lunch in one of the numerous establishments open in Lloret during the summer you could visit the Iberian settlement of Puig de Castellet and finish the day with a promenade along the seafront, and dinner in one of the local restaurants.
 
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The Iberian Route: Summer in the land of the ceretani

In the summer

Take a bicycle ride around the charming little villages of the Cerdanya, visit the impressive Iberian settlement of Bolvir, and relax in the peace and quiet of these natural surroundings.
 
BICYCLE ROUTE

Start your weekend early in the morning in Puigcerdà, with a round trip route by electric bicycle to visit little villages like Queixans and Pereres, in the valley of Cerdanya. All in all the route covers some 30 km, an excellent way of spending the day on a bicycle.

THE BOLVIR IBERIAN SETTLEMENT

During your bicycle tour stop at Bolvir, where you will find an impressive Iberian settlement which was opened to the public in 2015. The museum's facilities are modern and its collections and video presentation will help you to locate yourself in the Cerdanya of 2,000 years ago. The tour of the settlement, which is completely adapted and different from the others in the Iberian Route, provides a unique and memorable experience, as well as having some breath-taking views.
 
HOTEL PARK PUIGCERDÀ

Spend the night at the Hotel Park Puigcerdà, located just at the entrance to the town. The hotel is well-equipped and here you will be able to make the most of what is left of the evening as well as enjoying the following morning. You can also take advantage of your stay to visit Llívia, or some of the other towns in the area, where you can spend a pleasant evening and have dinner.
 
PUIGCERDÀ AND THE SURROUNDING AREA

After breakfast at the hotel you can play padel, take a dip in the swimming pool, or relax in the garden or the lounge. You might also like to explore the marvellous surrounding countryside and before the day is over, how about skating on ice or game of curling?


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The Iberian Route: The 'camí de ronda' footpaths in the land of indigetes

Three days of hiking, from Torroella de Montgrí to Palamós, passing through Begur and Calella de Palafrugell, in a unique landscape and discovering two Iberian treasures, right in the heart of the Costa Brava: the town of Castell, an unspoilt beach in Palamós, and the strategic site of Sant Sebastià de la Guarda in Palafrugell.
 
TORROELLA DE MONTGRÍ – BEGUR (14 KM)

On the first day, leave Torroella de Montgrí inland, and head for the long beach, the Platja de Pals, and then continue onwards towards Begur. Along the way you will find numerous coves with crystal-clear blue water. You could spend the night in Begur.
 
BEGUR – CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL (14 KM)

On the second day you will be walking through Mediterranean woods and you'll cross through unspoilt little coves, and walk along paths with magnificent views over the Mediterranean sea, as well as visiting charming towns such as, Tamariu, Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell, an enchanting fishing village where you can spend the night.

During your hike you can visit the Iberian settlement of Sant Sebastià de la Guarda in Palafrugell, located in a very privileged position on the top of the mountain with cliffs overlooking the sea, and with one of the best views of the Costa Brava. You can visit a 15th-century lookout tower, an 18th-century hermitage and hospice and a 19th-century lighthouse.
 
CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL – PALAMÓS (12 KM)

The route to follow on the third day is one of the most spectacular ones in the southern section of the Camí de Ronda. You will pass by small coves, an unspoilt beach of incompatible beauty, Mediterranean pine and oak woods, and olive orchards. The route takes you to Palamós, with its fully-functioning fishing port, and a fish auction that is open every day of week for those in the trade.

During the course of this day you will have the opportunity of visiting the Iberian settlement of Castell, in Palamós, which was occupied from the sixth century BCE until the Roman period. It is located in a place with magnificent views over one of the last unspoilt beaches of the Costa Brava.


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