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Barcelona

Barcelona, the city of hidden dragons

Every 23rd of April, Catalonia fills with roses and books to celebrate the day of Sant Jordi, a very special tradition dedicated to culture and love. Over the centuries, we’ve heard about the knight, the rose and the book, but we mustn’t forget that this story has another great protagonist: the dragon. These mythical creatures are a cultural symbol of Catalan identity and are hidden in many corners of Barcelona. We invite you to walk the city streets to discover these beasts in buildings and unique spaces, a way to find out about the legend of Sant Jordi, but this time from the perspective of the dragon.
 
Our first stop is the Palau de la Generalitat. Here, Sant Jordi is represented throughout the whole building: in the chapel, on an altarpiece, on the cross of the door, in the hall… In fact, on the façade of Calle del Bisbe, there’s the oldest representation of the knight fighting the dragon by Pere Joan in 1418.
 
Antoni Gaudí also took the iconography of the dragon to another level in many of his designs. The “trencadís” and ceramic tiling make his dragons the most spectacular specimens. Did you know that the structure of Casa Batlló is based on the myth of Sant Jordi killing the dragon? The wavy pieces on the roof represent the scales on the creature’s back. And we can’t forget the emblematic “trencadís” dragon from the fountain at the entrance to Park Güell, which has become a symbol of the city.
 
Sant Jordi is also represented in two of the most important works by Puig i Cadafalch. On the one hand, we find the entrance door to Casa Amatller decorated with a sculpture of Sant Jordi killing the dragon by Eusebi Arnau. On the other, the glazed ceramic mosaic of Sant Jordi stepping on the dragon in Casa Terrades, or Casa de les Punxes, by Enric Monserdà i Vidal. In Plaza de las Beates, in the Sant Pere i Santa Caterina neighbourhood, throughout the year, you can take in the city’s bestiary, where the dragon of Ciutat Vella really stands out. Right in the middle of the Rambla, Casa Bruno Cuadros also features a Japanese-style dragon on its facade. And in the Espanya Industrial park, there’s a giant slide shaped like a dragon. As well as these spaces, Barcelona is full of small details made from wrought iron and other artisan techniques that hide dragons. Some examples are the streetlamps by Gaudí in Plaza Reial, the door of the Pavellons Güell or the sign at the entrance to the Quatre Gats restaurant.

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Sant Cugat, from the Romanesque to contemporary tapestry

Sant Cugat, nestled between the mountain ranges of Collserola and Galliners, in Vallès Occidental, offers an attractive range of heritage, from the Roman era to modernity. Originally a Roman fortress located next to the road that connected Barcelona to Terrassa, the monastery was built in this same area from the 9th century. Due to the lengthy building process, we can find Carolingian, Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance elements. The Romanesque cloister stands out, with 144 capitals decorated with iconography of biblical scenes, mythological beings and even a self-portrait of the sculptor and master builder Arnay Cadell.

Torre Negra is another building linked to the monastery. This imposing fortified house built using dark stone –hence its name–, originates from the fortress constructed in 1145 to defend the territory of the monastery. Another place where you can truly feel the weight of history is the chapel of Sant Domènec, a small building that was the backdrop to the battle of Sant Cugat on October 12, 1808, during the French War, when several French detachments were defeated in the area. After the battle, and right up until the 20th century, a meeting was held at the chapel every “Day of Pilar” to commemorate the victory.
 
Modernism can also be found in San Cugat in the form of a wine cellar. The wine cooperative commissioned Cèsar Martinell to lead the project, a specialist in the construction of cooperative wineries. Unfortunately, due to a lack of budget, the original design could not be completed and, from the initial project, only the production room was constructed. Another visit of artistic interest is the Centre Grau-Garriga d’Art Tèxtil Contemporani, where we can find textile art by members of the Catalan School of Tapestry, such as Josep Grau Garriga and his protégée Dolors Oromi.
 
Another way to connect with the history of Sant Cugat and the country is by paying a visit to the Centre de Restauració de Béns Mobles de Catalunya, a space that promotes the conservation and restoration of cultural heritage. The visits show us how the restoration processes of heritage works are carried out.
 
If you’re visiting the city with your family, you can choose between various activities and themed itineraries at the Sant Cugat Museum and Tourist Office that will allow you to discover spaces like the Comic Museum and the Cal Gerrer House Museum.

A proposal brought to you in collaboration with Descobrir magazine.

Granollers retains the traces of its past

The heritage of the Vallés Oriental capital is open to visitors allowing them to discover the city’s past first hand through various facilities that also explain how society evolved in Granollers. This said, the first mandatory stop is the Granollers Museum. Although its origin dates back to 1932, the building that currently houses the museum is from 1976, when, following various different stages, it reopened to the public to exhibit its extensive collection, made up of archaeology, art, ethnography and numismatics.
 
To find out about the city’s medieval past, the archaeological site of Adobería de los Ginebreda is a good starting point. This truly unique space allows you to do so by exploring a significant section of the wall that surrounded the town, the traces of the remaining towers and the tannery itself, the only one preserved in the city of the dozen that have been recorded. What’s more, it’s the best preserved one in Catalonia.
 
A city’s heritage can also be explained through nature. This is made possible at the Museum of Natural Sciences of Granollers, known as the Tela after the name of the modernist tower bult in 1912 that houses a part of it. It has several spaces, including the Planetarium, which allows you to decipher the night sky. The Antonio Jonch Cuspinera gardens are a highlight at the Museum, where you can see different plant species found in the Vallés. 
 
You can discover Granollers’ textile past at La Térmica, which houses part of the history of the cotton industry in the Vallés. Built in 1951, it was the location of the old Roca Umbert factory  —now a space for artistic creation— which transformed and distributed the energy to convert cotton into clothing. Now, thanks to audiovisual pieces, you can discover the original elements and pieces that were part of La Térmica during the fifties.
 
You can visit these spaces and many others by following several itineraries that run through the municipality and may even start at the city’s iconic Renaissance Porxada. For example, the modernist and noucentista route, which visits the buildings from these periods, or that of bombed Granollers, which shows some of the emblematic sites affected by these episodes and Can Jonch, Cultural Centre for Peace


An excursion proposed in collaboration with the magazine Descobrir.

The memory of industrial colonies along the Ter

Throughout the 19th century, on the banks of the rivers Ter and Llobregat, different factories were set up which used the power of water to operate their machinery. In some cases, these factories offered housing for their workers along with other services such as schools and shops, which were part of the so-called industrial colonies.
 
We propose a route to visit some of the most emblematic colonies along the Ter as it passes through Osona. Our journey starts at the El Ter Museum, in Manlleu. Inaugurated in 2004, it explains the industrial and natural heritage of the middle river basin. It reveals historical aspects of the industrialisation process as well as the more social side to industrial life. The two turbines on show also make it possible to truly understand the mechanical system of the factory. The El Ter Museum is part of the territorial system of the National Museum of Science and Technology of Catalonia (MNACTEC).
 
Also in Manlleu, we find the origins of Colonia Rusiñol, formerly Can Remisa and residence of the painter and writer Santiago Rusiñol, which date back to 1845 when Josep Dulcet bought the land to build it. Cotton yarn was produced there until 2009 and it was the last colony in the middle part of the Ter to close. The El Ter Museum organises guided tours through the gardens and inside the buildings on the first Sunday of every month.
 
Colonia Imbern or El Pelut, in Orís, is one of the most unique of its kind in the middle section of the Ter. Dating from 1859, the gardens are a real highlight, designed by Rubió and Tudurí, as well as the modernist-style buildings, which were built using shaped river stone.
 
In Sant Vicenç de Torelló, we can reminisce about the past of two leading colonies. Opened in 1882, Colonia Vila-Seca was the first in the municipality. It consists of the factory, workers’ houses, church, inn, school and gardens. The historic homes are now privately owned. Colonia Borgonyà is the other well-known one, made operational in 1895 by J&P Coats, from Scotland. In 1903, they merged with Fabra, industrialists from Barcelona. The houses are currently inhabited by former workers, the factory buildings are occupied by several companies and the service facilities are owned by the Sant Vicenç de Torelló City Council. You can visit the colony on the third Sunday of each month through the El Ter Museum.

A proposal brought to you in collaboration with Descobrir magazine.

Barcelona through the works of Subirachs

Josep Maria Subirachs, an emblematic —and pioneering— Catalan avant-garde sculptor from the second half of the 20TH century, began his contribution to public sculpture between 1957 and 1960. His piece 'Forma 212' (1957), on the Passeig de la Vall d’Hebron, was his first abstract sculpture to be placed in a street in Barcelona. 'The following year', his Las Tablas de la Ley relief appeared on the façade of the UB Law Faculty –created in collaboration with the ceramicist Antoni Cumella–, and in 1960, he sparked controversy with another abstract piece located in the Barceloneta neighbourhood: 'Evocación marinera'.
 
Later, without abandoning abstract plastic expression, Subirachs started to incorporate figurative elements, such as the submarine in the 'Monumento a Narcís Monturiol' (1963), made of concrete and copper and located at the Diagonal/Provença/Girona intersection, or the negative relief La medida del espacio-tiempo (1967), in cubic blocks superimposed to form a female nude, on Via Augusta/Marià Cubí.
 
Subirachs is also behind the concrete frieze which references the city’s history linking the old Barcelona City Hall building with the Novíssim building in Plaza de Sant Miquel, and the façade of the now-disappeared 'Tele/eXprés' (1966) newspaper building, on Calle Aragó, 390. Due to its emblematic location, 'Puerta de san Jorge' (1975) is a definite highlight, which connects the Palacio del Virrey with the Salón del Tinell, and the 'Monumento al presidente Francesc Macià' (1991) in Plaza de Catalunya is also well worth a mention. 
 
In 1986, Subirachs was commissioned to create the sculptural groups of the Sagrada Familia’s Passion façade, a work of extraordinary proportions that kept him busy him for twenty years. He composed a large altarpiece made up of figures and high reliefs carved in stone along with four bronze doors that combine different representative and symbolic elements, through which he managed to convey the theme of the Passion of Christ with eloquent expressiveness.
 
The Espai Subirachs is in the Poblenou district and makes part of the multifaceted artist’s legacy available to the public. Through over a hundred different works, representative of the different stages of his career, you can discover an artist who, as well as being a sculptor, was also a prolific creator of drawings, paintings, engravings, lithographs, posters, jewellery, medals, tapestries and stage designs.

A proposal brought to you in collaboration with Descobrir magazine.

A walk through the historical heritage of Mataró

Did you know that Mataró is a city with a great wealth of modernist heritage? Here, you’ll find factories, markets, shops, houses and much more. We suggest discovering the legacy of architect, historian and local politician Josep Puig i Cadafalch, with works such the Rengle market, the La Confianza shop, or the Coll i Regàs house. What’s more, you simply must see Antoni Gaudí’s first building, the only trace left of the Mataró Workers’ Cooperative factory, known as the Nau Gaudí.
 
Another must-see on your getaway to the capital of the Maresme is the prison, by Elies Rogent i Amat. It’s a building of great importance in the history of contemporary prison architecture, a construction which is the first application example of the panopticon model in the state. In Mataró, you will also find an authentic jewel of the Catalan baroque: the Dolors set of paintings, an extraordinary collection that is housed in the Basilica of Santa Maria. It’s one of the most important examples of the Catalan baroque, work of Antoni Viladomat i Manalt, considered the best Catalan painter of the first half of the 18th century. This year, a historic intervention has been carried out to restore the famous bells of Santa Maria in an aim to preserve the manual chiming of the bells, which has been named Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.
 
On the outskirts of the city, at the eastern end of Camí Ral, in the Havana district, you’ll find an authentic treasure: a small temple of maritime tradition, built in the 17th century. It’s the hermitage of Sant Simó, where the Coca de Mataró was located, a maritime ex-voto of great artistic value that is now kept in the Maritiem Museum Prins Hendrik in Rotterdam.
 
Finally, you simply can’t leave Mataró without visiting the archaeological site of the Llauder tower, where you can see the remains of the stately buildings of a Roman villa built at the end of the 1st century B.C. which belonged to the territory of the Roman city of Iluro (now Mataró). It’s also an important archaeological site which has been declared a Cultural Asset of National Interest.
 
To find out more about the history of Mataró, visit the museum of Can Serra, which has various permanent and temporary exhibitions related to the city’s past, or Ca l’Arenes, where you can delve deeper into the municipality’s artistic activity.
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